How To Replace 2004 Subaru Forester Window Motor

Lots of posts on this online, about how difficult it is, saying must disassemble entire regulator – I had watched someone do it before, was dreading doing it myself – but turns out, you don’t have to, it’s actually super simple.. Hard to find a good guide how online, so here it is:

Easy job 1 hour tops for a novice/first timer.

  • Take off door panel, pull back plastic/silicone (lots of videos online)
  • Remove speaker
  • Unscrew three screws holding in motor inside of door (#3 phillips)
  • Unscrew two nearest 10mm bolts (red in image), loosen two others (green in image). These bolts hold the assembly to the door, be careful to not fully remove.
  • Wiggle the old motor out, took 5 minutes of maneuvering, may need to pry assembly outwards a bit
  • Place new motor in, screw in the 3 #3 philips on the motor, tighten and put back the 10mm bolts.

It’s that easy. I’m unsure if this applies to all second generation foresters, but I’ll put the years down for searching just incase it is: 2003, 2004, 2006, 2006, 2007, and 2008.

Fixing Up A 1992 Ford Ranger

Last year I got a ’92 Ranger, named Pearl. The car was perfect for me. I knew I wanted a Ford, I’d never finance, wanted an older boxy’er looking truck, and wasn’t interest in any bells and whistles. I wanted a reliable beater basically:

1992 Ford Ranger – White

Pearl was perfect – and best of all I got the car from a retired on the side mechanic, who intended this to be his winter driver (oh, did I mention it’s a 4×4, take that old man winter). He put a lot of love and money into it: replaced the rusty box, coated the frame and underbody with “POR-15”, new 4WD Shift Motor, new summers, alloy rims, etc.. And on a side note: he was an amazing help and source of information while fixing, being a great teacher/council when I ran into walls, having every tool you could possibly need, and the experience to help with the difficult things. Wouldn’t of done all the work and learned as much as I did without him.

Here’s the break down of the work put in thus far:

Continue reading Fixing Up A 1992 Ford Ranger

My Favourite Type of Problem

Problems are fun to solve. I’m a natural problem solver – speaking technically of course, social matters I’m clueless – and the funniest problems are the ones where when you’re troubleshooting, you think you’ve solved it, but after blood, sweat, and endless tears you discover there’s actually more than one issue causing the problem. Solving any of these issues independently doesn’t fix the problem, only solving them together.

This happens far too often while developing – and I had my first mechanical one this week. This is my new truck, Pearl.


Pearl’s 22, and her rear breaks gave out – problem originally diagnosed as a snapped break line.

After jacking her up, and lining the entire front-to-rear with new break line, repairing the rear break drums and secondary cylinders, replacing the seals, and throwing in a new left rear axil for the heck of it – the breaks still didn’t work.

Taking a step back, looking at the variables and researching online, finding the the ABS controller (which the line flows through), clog and basically shit the bed after so many years.

After working another few hours to find, pickup, and install a new ABS controller. The breaks still didn’t work. New break line, new ABS controller – what’s was left.

Turns out the plastic T in the rear was also clogged and complete garbage. Quick trip to local Lordco and a few stubborn bolts –


Victory. Sweet victory.

Made a Coat Hanger

Had a short entry way wall – with non-symmetrical placement of studs. I had a cheap 12″ hanger it was crappy, and making it worse it couldn’t even reach both the 16 on centre studs. I could use the plastic studs, but that would leave large damage in the rental we are in – so I made my own. Perfectly centre in the wall, with small fasteners for the off-centre studs.

2x 4×1’s, some moulding and hooks from Bella, Salmon Arm.